Bar review: Gough’s on Gough in NoHo – sleek and stylish with exceptional service

SCMP

The vibe: Gough’s on Gough is a sleek, stylish modern British bar and restaurant, easily spotted by the fish tank with a diver inside by the entrance.

There are two bar areas: one at street level and the other next to the upstairs restaurant, which is reached by an elegant if rather steep spiral staircase (you will want to take care when descending after a few drinks).

The decor is eclectic, yet the disparate elements – art-deco-style black and white floor, massive crystal bar ornaments, cosy leather seating – come together well.

The service is exceptional – so welcoming and attentive you feel as if you’ve walked into an old-fashioned private club.

The drinks: Patrons who order the Churchill Martini (HK$70, Plymouth Gin, Mancino Dry Vermouth, olive) are asked to give a nod in the direction of France as Winston used to do (staff helpfully tell you the right bearing). In Churchill’s case the nod was in lieu of adding any vermouth, but if this version is not quite that authentic it is still an agreeably dry and well-balanced martini.

Continuing the historic vein, the Classic Champagne Cocktail (HK$110, Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac, sugar lump, bitters, champagne) was well made but let down by the champagne not being properly chilled.

From the list of original cocktails, the Pear Negroni (HK$110, Ford’s Gin, Kamm & Sons, white wine, Mathilde Poire) was elegant, light and refreshing with a nice aftertaste of pear, even if it bore no resemblance to an actual negroni.

The Bar Italia (HK$110, Mancino Rosso Amaranto, Lairds 80 Proof Applejack, Amaro Averna, orange bitters, chocolate bitters) was the only disappointment – it was vaguely medicinal and the dusting of cocoa powder on the glass was a mistake.

Both the Pear Negroni and Bar Italia suffered from a surfeit of ice and a corresponding dilution of strength and flavour, although staff were quick to remove the offending cubes when asked.

The verdict: Gough’s on Gough is no doubt set to be a NoHo hotspot. The service and style gets full marks, while the drinks, though impressive, still need a little bit more work.

Gough’s on Gough, 15 Gough Street, Central, tel: 2473 9066. Open Mon to Sat, 6.30pm to 11.45pm

While you’re in the area:

Latest